Capability Brown

I am currently making a pair of Capability Brown’s derby shoes with a large buckle at the front. It has been an interesting starting point as they are very different in style to my own design work yet are similar in construction to contemporary shoes. 

The 18th Century Landscape architect, Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown earned his name by informing wealthy clients that their land had great ‘capability’ for improvements and after years of formally structured gardens, his natural, open landscapes brought a welcome change to the vast estates of England. Croome Court’s own beautiful and open landscape with its carefully engineered winding path allows you to appreciate not only the Court itself but also the various follies dotted in the distance.

I hope you enjoy seeing some of the processes that go into making his pair of shoes!  

After the pattern making and clicking (cutting the pattern pieces from the leather) the first process is to stitch the uppers, also known as ‘closing’.

In order to last the shoe, an insole needs to be shaped around the bottom of the last, either made from leather or board, they allow the leather to be pulled over the last and then cemented in place. I used this sole press in the London studio to shape the insole board after wetting it.

The uppers can now be lasted using the tacks to hold the leather in place. The beauty with lasting is in the pleats where it is possible to bring the leather tight around the last to create its individual shape. The heel is lasted first with a stiffener between the lining and upper followed by the toe lining, where a toe puff is placed to reinforce the toe shape.

After lasting the upper and cementing it to the insole, cork is used to even the gap made between the insole and the upper. Any excess leather is trimmed off and toe tacks are removed when cementing.

After lasting is finished, the sole can be attached. More photos to follow in the next few days which will look at the finishing processes involved in these shoes!